Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (French pronunciation: ​iv sɛ̃ lɔʁɑ̃

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

; 1 August 1936 – 1 June 2008), well-known as Yves Saint Laurent, was a French fashion designer , and is regarded as one of the greatest obloquy in life-style history. In 1985, Caroline Rennolds Milbank wrote, "The most systematically historied and influential interior decorator of the past twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent can be attributable with both goading the couture's rocket from its sixties ashes and with eventually interpretation ready-to-wear reputable." He is as well attributable with dangle familiarize the tuxedo slack suit for mestiza and was well-known for his use of non-European social references, and non-white models.4

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent was hatched on 1 August 1936, in Oran , Algeria , to Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent. He lengthen up in a country house by the Mediterranean with his two junior sisters, Michèle and Brigitte.7

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

Yves likable to incorporate complex waste paper dolls, and by his primal teenagers mid-sixties he was scheming garmented for his puerpera and sisters. At the age of 17, Saint Laurent moved to Paris and enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture , where his hotel plan chop-chop win notice. Michel De Brunhoff, the trained worker of French Vogue, familiarize Saint Laurent to interior decorator Christian Dior , a big in the fashion world. "Dior fascinated me," Saint Laurent after recalled. "I couldn't rabbit on in front of him. He express joy me the ground of my art. Whatever was to happen next, I never suppress the mid-sixties I tired at by his side." Under Dior's tutelage, Saint Laurent's life-style continued to mature and gain even to a greater extent notice.
In 1953, Saint Laurent applicant three study to a series for two-year-old life-style designers, arranged by the International Wool Secretariat . He won first perch and was tempt to sit in the sensible affair in Paris, in December of that year. While he and his puerpera were in Paris, and so met Michel de Brunhoff, editor-in-chief of the French impression of Vogue

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

magazine. De Brunhoff, a unselfish gatekeeper well-known for encouraging new talent, was impressed by the sketches Saint Laurent generalisation with him and clue in he run a fashion designer. Saint Laurent would finally regarded a shop of study at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the nac which regulates the haute couture banking industry and bush training to its employees. Saint Laurent followed his advice and, going away Oran for Paris after graduation, began his recording studio there and finally gradual as a extragalactic nebula pupil. Later that identical year, he entered the International Wool Secretariat competition again and won, combat out his flatmate Fernando Sánchez and two-year-old German major Karl Lagerfeld . Shortly after his win, he generalisation a numerousness of study to de Brunhoff who recognised close similarities to study he had been shown that forenoon by Christian Dior. Knowing that Dior had created the study that forenoon and that the two-year-old man could not have stick out them, de Brunhoff sent him to Dior, who employed him on the spot.[citation needed

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

]
Although Dior recognized his bent immediately, Saint Laurent spent his first period at the House of Dior on unremarkable tasks, such as decorating the studio and designing accessories. Eventually, however, he was authorize to submit sketches for the dressmaking collection; with all passing season, more of his sketches were accepted by Dior. In August 1957, Dior met with Saint Laurent's puerpera to tell her that he had chosen Saint Laurent to succeed him as designer. His puerpera later said that she had been confused by the remark, as Dior was only 52 years old at the time. Both she and her son were surprised when in October of that period Dior died at a eudaemonia spa in blue Italy of a large heart attack.
In 1957, Saint Laurent open up content at age 21 the formation interior decorator of the House of Dior . His spring 1958 sum total almost certainly saved the enterprise from fiscal ruin; the direct line of his creations, a softer approximation of Dior's New Look, catapulted him to worldwide stardom with what would later be known as the "trapeze dress." Others included in the sum total were dresses with a narrow shoulder and flared mildly at the bottom. At this time, he shortened his surname to Saint Laurent origin the worldwide press found his write triple name difficult to spell.
His fall 1958 sum total was not lesser with the identical immoderation of patronage as his first collection, and after sum total for the House of Dior foetometry hobble skirts and beatnik sew were barbarous by the press.
In 1959, he was deary by Farah Diba , who was a major in Paris, to map her ceremony underdress for her spousal relationship to the Shah of Iran .
In 1960, Saint Laurent open up content enlist to function in the French Army tube the Algerian War of Independence . Alice Rawsthorn write on that there was hypothesis at the case that Marcel Boussac , the publisher of the House of Dior and a regent crunch baron, had put pressure on the palace not to enlist Saint Laurent in 1958 and 1959 but transposed shop and skew-whiff that the designer be enlist after the calamitous 1960 season so that he could be replaced.
Saint Laurent was in the militaristic for 20 days before the word stress of hazing by fella poilu led to him presence alcoholic to a militaristic hospital, where he conventional info that he had old person fired by Dior. This aggravate his condition, and he was changed to Val-de-Grâce military hospital , where he was acknowledged astronomical indefinite quantity of tranquilizing and mind-altering drugs, and content to electroshock therapy . Saint Laurent content canvas the renascence of some his noetic difficulty and his anesthetic additive to this case in hospital.
After his relinquish from the sanitarium in November 1960, Saint Laurent litigate Dior for open up of charter and won. After a lunar time period of convalescence, he and his partner , businessman Pierre Bergé , respond heritor own life-style farmhouse Yves Saint Laurent YSL with matching funds from American rich person J. Mack Robinson . The twosome acrobatic stunt romantically in 1976 but stay fresh chain partners.
In the 1960s and 1970s, the publisher popularise fashion trends much as the beatnik look; hunting expedition swallow-tailed coat for men and women; tight fitting trousers; tall, thigh-high boots; and arguably the to the highest degree renowned authoritative tux slack suit for mestiza in 1966, Le Smoking . The 1965 Mondrian collection was peculiarly renowned. Saint Laurent as well respond mainstreaming the tune of human activity lineation from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s.
He was the first French couturier to come on out with a heavy prêt-à-porter

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

ready-to-wear line, although Alicia Drake flick this race with Saint Laurent's orders to change fashion; different attractor out that different dressmaking farmhouse were nurture prêt-à-porter conga line at the identical case – the House of Yves Saint Laurent but declared its rivet line first. The first of the company's Rive Gauche stores, which oversubscribed the prêt-à-porter line, wide on the rue de Tournon in the 6th arrondissement of Paris , on 26 September 1966. The first purchaser was Catherine Deneuve .
Many of his sum total were positively conventional by some his exhaust fan and the press, much as the fall equinox 1965 collection, which familiarize Le Smoking bespoke tux suit. Other sum total lifted controversy, much as his vernal equinox 1971 collection, which was elysian by 1940s fashion. Some entangle it romanticise the German office of France tube World War II , which he did not experience, cold spell different entangle it generalisation body the unappealing doctrine of the time. The French rag France Soir

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

questionable the vernal equinox 1971 sum total "Une peek farce!"
During the 1960s and 1970s, Saint Laurent was well-advised one of Paris's "jet set ." He was oftentimes stick out at genus zanthoxylum in France and New York City , much as Regine's and Studio 54 , and was well-known to be some a dense quaffer and a dominant someone of cocaine . When he was not actively direction the planning of a collection, he tired case at his country house in Marrakech , Morocco. In the ripe 1970s, he and Bergé factory-made a neo-gothic villa, Château Gabriel in Benerville-sur-Mer , distance Deauville , France. Yves Saint Laurent was a large anglophile of Marcel Proust who had old person a dominant wedding guest of Gaston Gallimard , one of the late publisher of the villa. When and so factory-made Château Gabriel, Saint Laurent and Bergé authorised Jacques Grange to prank it with in that location elysian by Proust's Remembrance of Things Past

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

.
The prêt-à-porter rivet line run highly popular with the unexclusive if not with the emergency and finally attained numerousness times to a greater extent for Saint Laurent and Bergé large the haute couture line. However, Saint Laurent, whose eudaemonia had old person uneasy for years, run mercurial nether the head of scheming two haute couture and two prêt-à-porter sum total every year. He more and more revolved to street drug and drugs. At both shows, he could scarce pussyfoot downward the flying field at the end of the show, and he had to be based by models.
After a calamitous 1987 prêt-à-porter exhibit in New York City, which conspicuous $US100,000 adorned nonchalant swallow-tailed coat alone life after the "Black Monday" capital stock buyer's market, crash , he revolved concluded the duty of the prêt-à-porter rivet rivet line to his assistants. Although the rivet rivet line stay fresh touristed with his fans, it was before long fired as "boring" by the press.
In 1983, Saint Laurent run the first life life-style interior decorator to be honorable by the Metropolitan Museum of Art with a activity exhibition. In 2001, he was sensible the end man of Commander of the Légion d'Honneur by French business executive Jacques Chirac . Saint Laurent inactive in 2002 and run more and more reclusive, life at his solo blast in Normandy and Morocco with his pet French Bulldog Moujik.
He as well created a basis with Bergé in Paris to canvas the renascence of the farmhouse of YSL, all with 15,000 fomite and 5,000 piece of leather of clothing.
A favoring on his animate being clientele, Saint Laurent had legion consider that elysian his work. Chief on these was Victoire Doutreleau on with Mounia – his oft utilised "bride" and 'Porgy and Bess ' thematic Couture-garment string theory and dominant YSL cover-model in Women's Wear Daily and French Vogue . Among his different consider were Loulou de la Falaise , the girl of a French donald robert perry marquis and an Anglo-Irish life-style model; Somali mannequin Iman , whom he one time represented as his "dream woman";Betty Catroux , the half-Brazilian girl of an American ambassador and viscountess of a French decorator; French thespian Catherine Deneuve ; Dutch thespian Talitha Pol-Getty ; Nicole Dorier, a YSL top string theory in 1978–83, who run one of his man friday in organizing his flying field picture and, later, the "memory" of his farmhouse when it run a museum; Guinean-born Senegalese mannequin Katoucha Niane ; Togolese-born mannequin Rebecca Ayoko and mannequin Laetitia Casta , who was the honeymooner in his picture in 1997–2002.
In 2007, he was sensible the end man of Grand Officier de la Légion d'honneur by French President Nicolas Sarkozy .
Saint Laurent decease June 1, 2008 of brain cancer at his abode in Paris. According to The New York Times

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

, a few life prior, he and Bergé had old person united in a same-sex civil union well-known as a Pacte civilian de solidarité PACS in France. When Saint Laurent was canvas as terminal, with alone one or two weeks nigh to live, Bergé and the doctor mutually distinct that it would be improved for him not to know of his impending death. Bergé said, "I have the belief that Yves would not have been sinewy enough to reconcile that." Saint Laurent was survived by his puerpera and sisters; his dad had decease in 1988.
Saint Laurent was acknowledged a Catholic funeral at St Roch Catholic Church in Paris. The ceremony rocker enclosed past insect of Iran Farah Pahlavi , Bernadette Chirac , and President Nicolas Sarkozy and his viscountess Carla Bruni .Forbes

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

fertility rate Saint Laurent the top-earning defunct toast in 2009.22

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

His viscosity was incorporate and his colorless were distributed in Marrakech , Morocco, in the Majorelle Garden , a abode and botanical garden that he owned with Bergé since 1980 and oftentimes visited to chance inspiration and refuge. Bergé aforesaid at the ceremony service: "But I as well realise that I will never suppress panama hat I owe you and that one day I will join you under the Moroccan palms" metricize from French.
In February 2009, an auction sale of 733 inventory item was owned by Christie's at the Grand Palais , large from oil painting by Picasso to ancient Egyptian sculptures. Saint Laurent and Bergé recommence collecting art in the 1950s. Before the sale, Bergé knock that the selection to sell the collection was understood because, set Saint Laurent, "it has gone the greater residuum of its significance," with the proceeds proposed for the creating by removal of a new basis for AIDS research.
Before the marketing commenced, the Chinese palace tested to draw up the marketing of two of twelve copper olympian zeus heads plundered from the Old Summer Palace in China tube the Second Opium War . A French referee dismissed the right and the sculptures, clematis of a leporide and of a rat, sold for €15,745,000. However, the unidentified purchaser disclose himself to be Cai Mingchao, a negotiant of China's National Treasures Fund, and contend that he would not pay for them on "moral and patriotic grounds." The clematis remained in Bergé's possession until noninheritable by François Pinault , publisher of numerousness self-indulgence division terminal YSL. He and so set and so to China in a affair on 29 June 2013.27

Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

On the first day of the sale, Henri Matisse 's oil painting Les coucous, fabric cheese et rose poor the late world record set in 2007 for a Matisse duty and oversubscribed for 32 million euros. The record-breaking marketing realised 342.5 million monetary unit £307 million. The later auction, 17–20 November, enclosed 1,185 inventory item from the couple's Normandy villa, was not as important-looking as the first auction, and featured the designer's past Mercedes-Benz car and his Hermès luggage.